Best Espetada Restaurants in Madeira
Where to eat the signature laurel-skewered beef, grilled over wood and served hanging from a stand.
Espetada is Madeira's defining dish: cubes of beef threaded onto a fresh laurel branch (pau de loureiro), salted heavily, and grilled over an open wood fire. It's served still on the skewer, hung from a vertical iron stand at the table, with bolo do caco, milho frito (fried polenta cubes), salad and a jug of vinho da casa.
The espetada heartland is in the hills above Câmara de Lobos, Estreito de Câmara de Lobos and Santo da Serra, where the original restaurants set the standard 50+ years ago. The list below is selective: venues that still grill over wood, still use laurel branches (not metal skewers) and still feel like a Madeiran Sunday lunch rather than a tourist conveyor belt.
How we chose
Traditional grill houses serving authentic espetada em pau de loureiro, beef chunks skewered on a laurel branch and grilled over an open wood fire.
| # | Name | Type | Area |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | A Pipa restaurant & bar | Restaurants | Porto da Cruz |
| 2 | Restaurante Piscinas | Restaurants | Porto da Cruz |
| 3 | Praça Velha | Restaurants | Porto da Cruz |
| 4 | Praça do Engenho | Restaurants | Porto da Cruz |
| 5 | Do Dia P'ra Noite | Restaurants | Santa Cruz |
| 6 | O Professor | Restaurants | Santa Cruz |
| 7 | Recanto da Pitada | Restaurants | Santa Cruz |
| 8 | Taberna do Petisco | Restaurants | Santa Cruz |
| 9 | Mercado Velho | Restaurants | Machico |
| 10 | Restaurante Marisqueira O Pescador | Restaurants | Machico |
| 11 | Bar Restaurante O Mero | Restaurants | Caniço |
| 12 | Blue | Restaurants | Machico |
| 13 | O Gonçalves | Restaurants | Machico |
| 14 | As Vides | Restaurants | Estreito de Câmara de Lobos |
| 15 | Tasca Literária Dona Joana Rabo-de-Peixe | Restaurants | Funchal Old Town |
| 16 | Restaurante Praia dos Reis Magos | Restaurants | Reis Magos |
| 17 | Restaurante A Lareira | Restaurants | Caniço |
| 18 | Sabores da Andreia | Restaurants | Caniço de Baixo |
| 19 | Sabor a Fado | Restaurants | Funchal, Old Town |
| 20 | Mezze Grill | Restaurants | Funchal, Centro |
| 21 | Zarcos Restaurant & Steakhouse | Restaurants | Funchal, Conde Carvalhal |
| 22 | Casa de Abrigo do Poiso | Restaurants | Camacha, Poiso |
| 23 | Restaurante O Arco | Restaurants | Arco de São Jorge, Santana |
| 24 | Rota dos Sabores | Restaurants | Santa Cruz |
| 25 | Laranjinha Bistro & Grill | Restaurants | Caniço de Baixo |
| 26 | Cidade Velha | Restaurants | Funchal Old Town |
| 27 | Restaurante Praia Formosa | Restaurants | Funchal, Praia Formosa |
| 28 | Barra Azul | Restaurants | Funchal, Praia Formosa |
| 29 | Quinta do Furão | Restaurants | Santana |
| 30 | O Lagar | Restaurants | Estreito de Câmara de Lobos |
The list (30)
Restaurants
1.A Pipa restaurant & barVillage snack-bar on a narrow, bunting-strung street in the heart of Porto da Cruz, shaded terrace tables, generous plates of the day and cold beer at local prices. The kind of place where half the village passes through at lunch.
portuguese€€Pratos do dia and terrace snacks2.Restaurante Piscinas
RestaurantsLaid-back Portuguese grill right beside Porto da Cruz's public sea pools, with the Penha de Águia rock towering behind. Grilled fish, espetada and cold beer after a swim or surf.
portuguese€Grilled fish and espetada by the sea pools3.Praça Velha
RestaurantsClassic Portuguese restaurant on the old square in the centre of Porto da Cruz, a short walk from the seafront. Known for generous plates of octopus, monkfish, espetada and home-style Madeiran cooking, with views towards the sea and Penha de Águia.
portuguese€€Octopus and monkfish on the village square
Restaurants
4.Praça do EngenhoLarge, traditional restaurant inside the old sugar-cane rum mill at Hotel Costa Linda in Porto da Cruz. Capacity for more than 150 diners, with original factory walls, Madeiran meat and fish dishes, vegetarian options and a terrace overlooking the sea.
portuguese€€Traditional Madeiran dishes in a converted rum mill
Restaurants
5.Do Dia P'ra NoiteEasy-going restaurant and café a few steps from the seafront in Santa Cruz, serving generous, honest Madeiran cooking at fair prices. Set menu or à la carte, a sunny outdoor terrace, air-conditioned rooms inside, free Wi-Fi, a children's area and takeaway.
portuguese€Daily set menu and grilled fish near Santa Cruz beach6.O Professor
RestaurantsSimple, family-run spot right on Santa Cruz's main square, with a small terrace under the trees. Snacks, prego rolls, grilled fish and shellfish at local prices, the kind of place regulars use for lunch rather than a tourist night out.
portuguese€Cheap square-side lunches and grilled fish7.Recanto da Pitada
RestaurantsSmall, casual kitchen on Rua da Praia in Santa Cruz doing quick, home-style plates and takeaway. Popular with locals for a fast, cheap lunch between the square and the beach; service can be hit and miss when it's busy.
portuguese€Home-style plates and takeaway near the beach
Restaurants
8.Taberna do PetiscoTiny, no-reservations tavern in the old centre of Santa Cruz that locals and visitors queue for. The menu is built around seafood petiscos, garlic prawns, octopus, cuttlefish and daily fish, served quickly at tightly packed tables or on the small pavement terrace. Arrive early or be prepared to wait; it fills up every night.
portuguese€€Garlic prawns, octopus and seafood petiscos
Restaurants
9.Mercado VelhoMachico's best-known restaurant, open since 1972 in the town's old market building. Portuguese and international cooking served in a walled garden with a fountain and a large shaded esplanade, a minute from the beach.
portuguese€€Garden dining in Machico's old market house
Restaurants
10.Restaurante Marisqueira O PescadorSeafood restaurant facing Machico beach, with a long dining room overlooking the seafront and prominent O Pescador signage. The entrance is beside the large blue anchor on the beach side of the building.
seafood€€Seafood by Machico beach
Restaurants
11.Bar Restaurante O MeroUnfussy fish and seafood restaurant on Estrada do Cristo Rei at Garajau, a short walk from the Cristo Rei statue and viewpoint. Grilled fish of the day, big garlic prawns and limpets served on a thatched, sea-facing terrace looking over the Garajau marine reserve. Open every day, 10:00 to 20:00.
portuguese€€Grilled fish of the day and garlic prawns with a sea-view terrace12.Blue
RestaurantsBig, rustic grill house in Machico specialising in charcoal cooking, the charcoal-grilled bacalhau and the grilled chicken are what people come for. Covered esplanade, private parking and generous portions at local prices.
portuguese€€Charcoal-grilled bacalhau and grilled chicken13.O Gonçalves
RestaurantsModern, comfortable Machico restaurant with a good terrace, open from breakfast through to late. Regional Madeiran cooking with a strong shellfish and fish side, and a menu priced for locals rather than cruise days.
portuguese€€Regional Madeiran fish and shellfish14.As Vides
RestaurantsThe reference espetada house: laurel-skewered beef grilled over an open fire and served hanging from a stand, with bolo do caco and house wine. A Madeira institution.
portuguese€€Espetada em pau de loureiro (laurel-skewered beef)15.Tasca Literária Dona Joana Rabo-de-Peixe
RestaurantsTiny, character-packed tasca on Rua de Santa Maria in Funchal's Old Town. Daily-changing chalkboard menu of small Portuguese plates, strong on vegetables and offal.
portuguese€€Daily petiscos chalkboard
Restaurants
16.Restaurante Praia dos Reis MagosBeachfront restaurant in Caniço de Baixo serving traditional Madeiran cuisine with serene coastal views. Great for Madeiran tapas right on the seafront.
portuguese€€Madeiran tapas with sea view
Restaurants
17.Restaurante A LareiraLong-standing restaurant on Caniço's old town square, with a shaded terrace looking straight out over the parish church and the morning produce market. Traditional Madeiran cooking, espetada, grilled fish, bolo do caco, at everyday local prices.
portuguese€€
Restaurants
18.Sabores da AndreiaTucked-away tasca in Caniço serving proper old Madeiran home-cooked food, big portions of espetada, grilled limpets, black scabbard fish, proper local sides. The kind of place where locals eat.
portuguese€Espetada and limpets, locals' favourite
Restaurants
19.Sabor a FadoFamily-run casa de fados in Funchal's Old Town, open since 2011, traditional Portuguese home cooking served while the owners and their family sing live fado between the tables. Small, intimate room; dinner only.
portuguese€€Live fado sung by the owners while you dine
Restaurants
20.Mezze GrillTurkish and Eastern Mediterranean mezze and grill on Rua Imperatriz Dona Amélia in the centre of Funchal, cold and hot mezze, lamb kofta, charcoal-grilled meat and fish, and generous platters to share, cooked in an open kitchen.
turkish€€Hot and cold mezze, lamb kofta and charcoal grill
Restaurants
21.Zarcos Restaurant & SteakhouseHillside restaurant and steakhouse above Funchal with one of the best panoramic views in the city, with the whole amphitheatre, harbour and cruise ships laid out below the terrace. Grilled steaks alongside traditional Madeiran and Portuguese cooking.
portuguese€€Panoramic terrace views over Funchal bay with chargrilled steaks and Madeiran dishes
Restaurants
22.Casa de Abrigo do PoisoMountain shelter restaurant at the Poiso pass, 1,412 m up on the road to Pico do Arieiro. Hearty traditional Portuguese food, a roaring fireplace in misty weather, and the classic Madeiran starter of fresh cheese with honey and walnuts.
portuguese€€Fresh cheese with honey & walnuts; octopus
Restaurants
23.Restaurante O ArcoIndependent roadside bar and restaurant on Caminho da Entrosa in Arco de São Jorge, serving traditional Madeiran and Portuguese food in a simple local setting, with outdoor tables and green north-coast slopes behind it.
madeiran€Traditional Madeiran cooking, including espetada
Restaurants
24.Rota dos SaboresFriendly petiscos restaurant in the centre of Santa Cruz, serving Madeiran and Portuguese sharing plates, garlic prawns, breaded prawns, milho frito, rissóis and fresh salads, on a terrace steps from the seafront promenade.
portuguese€€Garlic prawns; milho frito; petiscos platters
Restaurants
25.Laranjinha Bistro & GrillCharming Caniço bistro with a warm ambiance and a menu blending Madeiran flavours with international dishes. Strong service and consistent quality.
portuguese€€€26.Cidade Velha
RestaurantsCharming Funchal Old Town spot near the waterfront serving classic Madeiran cuisine on a sea-view terrace.
portuguese€€
Restaurants
27.Restaurante Praia FormosaThe namesake beach restaurant on Funchal's largest beach: a blue-and-white striped kiosk with a big seafront esplanade directly on the pebbles, serving fresh fish, seafood and Madeiran classics with the Atlantic as the backdrop. Coffee, cocktails and sangria all day on the terrace; a popular sunset spot on the São Martinho promenade. Tel +351 291 177 345.
portuguese€€28.Barra Azul
RestaurantsSea-view restaurant and bar on the São Martinho promenade at Praia Formosa, grilled fish, espetada and cold beers served on a big terrace a few steps from the water. Lively at weekends and a favourite for long, lazy lunches by the sea.
portuguese€€
Restaurants
29.Quinta do FurãoCountry-house restaurant on the north-coast cliffs above Santana, serving regional dishes, bolo do caco from the wood oven, espetada, fresh local fish, with a panoramic vineyard-and-Atlantic view.
madeiran€€Bolo do caco from the wood oven30.O Lagar
RestaurantsClassic espetada house in Estreito de Câmara de Lobos, beef threaded on laurel branches, grilled over a wood fire and served hanging from an iron stand, with bolo do caco, milho frito and house wine.
grill€€Espetada em pau de loureiro
Practical notes
- Book ahead for dinner, these restaurants fill on Friday, Saturday and Sunday especially.
- Order espetada by weight (kilo prices on the menu), half a kilo per person is plenty with sides.
- Bolo do caco with garlic butter is the obligatory starter; don't skip it.
- Lunch service is usually quieter and just as good, a good plan if you have hiking later in the day.