The cable car from Funchal
The Teleférico do Funchal departs from Almirante Reis in the Old Town (next to the cathedral end of the seafront). The ride is 15 minutes over Funchal's rooftops and ribeira valleys, glass cabins, six people each. Buy tickets at the lower station or online; queues hit 30+ minutes when cruise ships dock. From the top station it's a 5-minute walk down to the church square and the garden entrance. A second cable car (Jardim Botânico) runs from Monte across the valley to the Madeira Botanical Garden — useful if you want to combine both in one half-day.
Monte Palace tropical garden
The garden was created by the late José Berardo (a Madeiran-born industrialist and art collector) around the ruined 19th-century Quinta Monte Palace hotel. It's terraced down a deep valley, with two large Asian-themed lakes, Buddhist statues, a koi pond, the world's largest collection of native cycads, a mineral and gemstone museum (free with garden entry) and modern African sculpture. Around 1.5–2 hours. Take comfortable shoes — the paths are steep cobbled steps both directions.
Nossa Senhora do Monte church
The white twin-towered baroque church is the focus of the village square and the destination of Madeira's largest annual pilgrimage on 15 August (Assumption Day). The 74 steps in front are where carros de cesto traditionally start. Inside is a small image of Our Lady of Monte, the island's patron, and the tomb of Karl I of Austria — the last Habsburg emperor, exiled and died here in 1922. Free entry.
Carros de cesto (the toboggan ride)
Two-seat wicker baskets on greased wooden runners, steered downhill on Monte's cobbled streets by two carreiros in straw boaters and white linen — the city's official transport from Monte down to Funchal before the cable car existed. The run is 2 km, takes about 10 minutes, ends in Livramento (not central Funchal — you'll need a taxi back, ~€10). Maximum speed around 30 km/h. Operates daily except Sundays, roughly 09:00–18:00. Tickets sold on the street outside the church.
Walking down from Monte
The free alternative to the carros and the cable car: walk down on the Levada do Bom Sucesso or the parallel Caminho do Monte footpath. Both lead through Babosas valley and end within walking distance of the Funchal Botanical Garden in roughly 1.5 hours, mostly shaded, mostly downhill, cobbled in places. A satisfying loop: cable car up, walk down.
Best time to visit
Mornings. Monte sits in the cloud-cap belt and from around 13:00 in summer the upper village often disappears into mist — the views from the cable car are then a wall of white. Aim for the first cable car at 09:30. Avoid 11:00–14:00 on cruise-ship days (Sundays in winter, Wednesdays/Saturdays in summer are typical) — the garden and church square get jammed. Check the live Funchal weather and look at the cloud base before paying for the cable car.
Where to stay nearby
Most visitors stay in Funchal and ride up. The handful of quintas in Monte itself (notably Quinta Jardins do Lago in the adjacent valley, andBelmond Reid's a level down) suit travellers who want cooler nights, a garden setting, and a calmer base than the seafront.
Common questions
What is Monte famous for?
Three things: the cable car from Funchal old town (550 m vertical, 15 minutes), the Monte Palace tropical garden, and the carros de cesto — wicker-basket toboggans that two straw-hatted carreiros push down the hill to Livramento. It's the most popular half-day from Funchal.
How do you get to Monte?
The Funchal cable car (Teleférico do Funchal) from Almirante Reis in the Old Town — about 15 minutes, €12.50 one-way, €18 return. Or drive up (15 min, free street parking but tight), or take bus 20/21 from Funchal centre.
Is the toboggan ride worth it?
Yes, as an experience — it's been running since 1850 and Ernest Hemingway called it 'one of the most exhilarating things' he'd done. €30 for two people for the 2 km, 10-minute ride down to Livramento. It's not fast or dangerous, but it's unique to Madeira. You'll need a taxi (~€10) or another cable car back to Funchal from the bottom.
Is Monte Palace garden worth the entry fee?
Yes if you like gardens — €15 entry, allow 1.5–2 hours. It's a steep terraced site with Asian-themed lakes, large cycad and orchid collections, an 18th-century chapel and a mineral museum. Generally rated above the Madeira Botanical Garden for setting and atmosphere.
Can you walk down from Monte to Funchal?
Yes — the Levada do Bom Sucesso footpath runs from Monte down to the Funchal Botanical Garden area in about 1.5 hours. Mostly downhill, mostly shaded, but cobbled and uneven in places. A common alternative to taking the cable car both ways.